- Pokémon Essentials Version
- Non-applicable
Hello there! I see a lot of people asking for lineart brushes for Fakemon, so I decided to create one for Procreate atleast. Brushes included are only for lineart, shading is just technique. Updated for v2 to include latest technique!
A couple of important notes:
1. All Procreate specific things are marked in bold
2. Things important in general are italicised and underlined
I would recommend going into Brush Settings —> Dynamics —> Jitter depending on how much of flakiness you want in your lineart. I personally prefer 10 or less but the official style seems to match more with a value of 40-60.
An important tip is to use at least 4 layers, 1 for lineart, 1 for colour, 1 for white shading, 1 for black shading. For this reference, I used 8 layers, (4x2) as I wanted the trident to be easily movable or rotatable later so I made a few different layers for it.
If you want to say, reduce the intensity of shading over a certain area, donot use the eraser at max opacity, it will look bad and unfinished. Mess with opacity and wetness in Brush Settings —> Wetness to get the optimal rubbing effect. Generally it is preferred using the same brush for drawing and erasing anything, be it shading or lineart (as they generally share same opacity by default in Procreate). So for say Lineart I use the Studio Pen, then for rubbing I also use the Studio Pen, and so on. Some flexobiloty is allowed, for shading I use Round Watercolour, for erasing I may use Round or Square watercolours for example. They’re not the same brush, but very similar.
Note the green boxes in this image, what I have done is; choose a darker colour and colour it in as a flat colou, then choose any watercolour brush (Watercolour —> Round Brush for Procreate) and shade lightly around the flat colour. Then shade in jagged, thin lines over the lightly shaded area almost parallel to the flat colour. Then choose a smudge tool, and smudge the lines so that they are not extremely pronounced.
For round surfaces, start shading in large circles and move inward in smaller concentric circles till a small bright or dark spot, as desired.
For flat or slightly curved surfaces, shade in long lines with rounded edges and move inward with lines of smaller thickness, a bright spot is generally not seen in such forms of shading, so only a slight shading is required (as seen in the stomach of the reference).
A couple of important notes:
1. All Procreate specific things are marked in bold
2. Things important in general are italicised and underlined
I would recommend going into Brush Settings —> Dynamics —> Jitter depending on how much of flakiness you want in your lineart. I personally prefer 10 or less but the official style seems to match more with a value of 40-60.
An important tip is to use at least 4 layers, 1 for lineart, 1 for colour, 1 for white shading, 1 for black shading. For this reference, I used 8 layers, (4x2) as I wanted the trident to be easily movable or rotatable later so I made a few different layers for it.
If you want to say, reduce the intensity of shading over a certain area, donot use the eraser at max opacity, it will look bad and unfinished. Mess with opacity and wetness in Brush Settings —> Wetness to get the optimal rubbing effect. Generally it is preferred using the same brush for drawing and erasing anything, be it shading or lineart (as they generally share same opacity by default in Procreate). So for say Lineart I use the Studio Pen, then for rubbing I also use the Studio Pen, and so on. Some flexobiloty is allowed, for shading I use Round Watercolour, for erasing I may use Round or Square watercolours for example. They’re not the same brush, but very similar.
Note the green boxes in this image, what I have done is; choose a darker colour and colour it in as a flat colou, then choose any watercolour brush (Watercolour —> Round Brush for Procreate) and shade lightly around the flat colour. Then shade in jagged, thin lines over the lightly shaded area almost parallel to the flat colour. Then choose a smudge tool, and smudge the lines so that they are not extremely pronounced.
For round surfaces, start shading in large circles and move inward in smaller concentric circles till a small bright or dark spot, as desired.
For flat or slightly curved surfaces, shade in long lines with rounded edges and move inward with lines of smaller thickness, a bright spot is generally not seen in such forms of shading, so only a slight shading is required (as seen in the stomach of the reference).
- Credits
- Credit not required but you could credit me (aR0y2810) if you wish
